Thursday, 7 February 2013
THE FASHION HYMEN
The sex motif was speculated only a fair few months ago regarding a sly undercurrent in last season's trends. In a previous piece titled 'Lets talk about sex baby' the notion of the birds and the bees was evidently the topic of the season, yet with a certain misconception. Last year fashion hit hypocrisy leading to an accidental covert gesture in its attempt of opposing sexy.
Introducing the delicate debutante of the season, the sartorial statements of Spring/Summer 2012 symbolised an ingenue embellished in innocent materials of chiffon and cellophane composed into fragile pieces from a feather adorned empire lined dress seen on the chimerical carousel of Louis Vuitton to the bedroom inspired pieces of Stella McCartney seeking a sleeping beauty slipped into a elegant androgyny draped in button up blouses and paisley print elasticated trousers.
The sexual connotations were transparent with fashions attempts of suggesting purity proving unsuccessful. Whilst the exposure of a midriff amid a flower-print bralette and a flared midi skirt revealing dainty ankles - watch out Victorians - sent the senses flaring, the notion of the Dolce & Gabanna 1950s house wife indicated that of role play. Fabricating an alternative to underwear, the pyjama inspired slouchy silhouettes of the models of Stella Mccartney and JW Anderson sought a laid-back luxury. A Hugh Hefner-esque inspiration culling silk in sorbet shades composing a bedroom-inspired look - and if the terms 'bedroom' and 'playboy' are customary, the purity statement had succeedingly broken it's fashion hymen.
From various print fads including the digital flower print courtesy of Mary Katrantzou and the paisley print sported by various fashion followers including Alexa Chung and Miranda Kerr to diverse structures including the cocooned coat from Jil Sanders AW12 collection and the waist accentuating peplum exhibited on the catwalks of Peter Pilotto and Jason Wu, the temperamental nature of mother fashion has led to a whimsical outburst of trends. However this season the fashion climate has delivered a cleansed January air to the catwalk.
Stripped to a minimum, this season is what Vogue have described as a quiet revolution. Clean-cut origami folds in clerical cottons whispers a refined intellectual figure. Vacant of adornments and prints, the neutral designs of this seasons trends murmurs a muliebrous undertone, with no need to prove audacity this woman knows who she is. Alber Elbaz, creative director of Lanvin states this spring's mode is all about 'comfort and liberation', evidentially a Coco Chanel tactic.
Delicately draped upon aligned shoulders in materials of organza and satin a sophisticated serenity serenaded the silhouettes of the lithe models striding the runways of Givenchy and Lanvin. The pieces were tranquil in their designs where simple aesthetics composed a more reserved glamour. Whilst Givenchy applied celestial accents with angel-like winged ruffles to collars of elementary ensembles, Lanvins androgynous emphasis saw tailored suits fitted in a feminine manner from nipped in waistcoats to flared trousers.
Waving farewell to the surreptitious sex-symbol of previous seasons, the unnecessary appliques and the incessant amount of sheer, the pure precision of the designs of 2013 have created a neutral, meaning no nonsense necessary approach. The simplicity of the collections of Givenchy and Lanvin has delivered a soft spoken understatement affirming 'woman'.